
From Stornoway, we catch a morning flight to Edinburgh. There's a two hour delay before taking off, and I use the time to write down a new tune based on Psalm 29.
Our hotel has been recommended by Dennis Dewey, who takes about three groups a year to Scotland. It's a hotel on Princes Street, one of the main drags through town, and the views from our window provide a good orientation to notable historical sites. That's the art museum, with the Assembly Hall of the Church of Scotland above it.

Looking left, the memorial to Sir Walter Scott is across the street. Holyrood Palace (the queen's Edinburgh pad) and the adjoining park are in the center, with the spire of St. Giles Cathedral looming above it all to the right.
For a Presbyterian, Edinburgh verges on being holy ground. John Knox preached our denomination into being from the pulpit of St. Giles. The city has a significant Presbyterian heritage, although it's been eclipsed by the rise of the secularism and is significantly downplayed in all the tourist literature.

We arrive on a brilliant blue day, drop our bags at the Ramada, and head up the hill to the "Holy Mile." Jamie discovers a shop that is properly named. It's not far from the Whisky Heritage Center, so we drop in there for a quick visit and a wee dram.

The Edinburgh Castle looms over this part of the city. Situated on a huge chunk of rock, it's a formidable presence and a constant reminder of the city's medieval roots. The day after we leave, the castle will be the site for the military Tattoo, a huge presentation of bagpipe bands, highland dancing, and precision marching. It's a big deal, and sells out a year in advance.

This is also the opening week of the Edinburgh Festival - there will be hundreds of artistic presentations around the city, including opera, drama, all kinds of music, and a concert tonight by Manhattan Transfer.
But most important, today is Jamie's birthday. It's her day to call the shots. We enjoy a brisk walk along the Royal Mile, or at least the first half of it. She's interested in visiting a worship service at St. Giles Cathedral, and suggests that we return tomorrow for that.

On the recommendation of Dennis Dewey, we wander down to Sandy Bell's Pub, haven of a lot of world-class folk and traditional music. Even though there is a new smoking ban throughout Scotland, the place is noisy and small. It's hard to imagine where a band will play, until a fiddler drops by for a pint.
We stick around for a short bit and decide to opt for a quiet stroll. We have spent a lot of time walking together on this trip, and have enjoyed the exercise very much. On the way back, we pass by a coffee shop where J.K. Rowling wrote the first Harry Potter book, and stop at a basement internet cafe where we can write notes to loved ones at home.
Edinburgh is dramatically different from the small town of Stornoway. It was odd to grab a noontime sandwich at a Subway, especially after the restraint of three days in the Hebrides. The city moves at a faster pace, and the sheer number of tourists makes it more impersonal. But we're glad to be here - and this whole trip has been a tremendous gift for which we are deeply grateful.

And then we walk by the alley (or "close") which was the home of Deacon Brodie, a murderous whack-job of a person who inspired Robert Louis Stevenson to invent Dr. Jeckyll and Mr. Hyde. It's right across the street from a sidewalk vendor who has more facial piercings than we had ever imagined possible...